In some ways, communicating controls are easier to wire than
conventional 24 volt control systems. There are fewer wires, and generally
speaking, everything connects letter to letter. Still, it seems technicians
keep figuring out ways to incorrectly wire four wires.
Wire Type
Early communicating systems used shielded cables that looked
like computer cables – because that is what they were. You did not connect bare
wires to anything, you plugged in the connector to the socket on the control
board. Besides being somewhat expensive, these proved to be less robust than
was needed for equipment installed outside. Most communicating control systems for
traditional split systems and packaged units work fine with traditional thermostat
wire: 18 gauge. In fact, the connections are designed expecting that type of
wire. Do not use anything smaller than
18 gauge. The control wire is generally not shielded. The control wire should
not be run parallel to power wire to avoid interference. If you have to cross a
power wire, it is best to do it at right angles. As with any installation, the
control wire and power wire should not be run in the same conduit. It is fine
to tape the wire to the line-set.
Mini-Splits
Nearly all mini-splits and multi-splits use communicating
controls. Their wiring breaks all the rules discussed above. Typically, they
use 14-4 cables. These cables contain four #14 gauge, stranded wires. Two wires
in the cable are for powering the indoor unit and two provide communication.
Sometimes this cable is shielded. If you do use shielded cable it is important
to only ground one end, not both. I prefer grounding the end at the outdoor
unit because you are closest to the power supply and the equipment ground. The
connectors on mini-split and multi-split units are made to use stranded wire. Although
there are only four connections, it is important that the same wire used to
connect to each outdoor terminal connects to a similarly labeled indoor
terminal. Sounds simple, but it is amazingly easy to cross up even just four
wires. After connecting the outdoor wires, take a picture with your phone so you
can verify that you are connecting them to the correct terminals inside.
Multi-Splits
Most multi-split units have terminal connections for each
head at the outdoor unit. A 14-4 wire runs from the outdoor unit to each head.
A crucial detail is to insure that the wires for each head correspond to the
correct set of refrigerant lines. Although this seems simple, it is very easy
to screw up. One way to avoid getting wires and lines crossed is to tape the
14-4 cable for each head to the line-set for each head.
Read and Follow Instructions
When it comes right down to it, most installation issues could
be avoided by actually reading and following the instructions. Most
manufacturers provide specific instructions for wiring their equipment, even if
it is as simple as connecting four labeled terminals to four other similarly labeled
terminals. There is not really an industry standard for the terminal labels.
However, that is not important if you follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Most of the time, whatever label is used outside it also used inside.
Speaking as an EE, the high voltage signaling concept used in these systems is a cost optimization at the expense of safety. The general idea is to avoid having to separate what should be Class II control wiring from the power cable. Of course, it’s expensive dragging 600v wire so they pretend it’s internal to a single system, add an overcurrent device and use 18AWG or 14 AWG. The overcurrent device doesn’t actually have a high fault current interrupting rating like a panel breaker, that would be expensive. The result is the indoor unit and what’s described as a signal cable are exposed to the worst case fault current at the outdoor unit’s power connection.
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