Check Combustion Air

With the weather getting cooler, I thought that now would be a good time to talk about combustion air. Don’t forget to check for proper combustion air. Most codes provide detailed drawings illustrating where combustion air should come from and how much you need, but there are still many furnace installations that rely entirely on air from inside the building for combustion air. In days gone by this was often considered adequate so long as the furnace was located in a large enough space. In newer homes, combustion air should always be provided.

Most 90%  furnaces today can operate using sealed combustion. In the case of a sealed combustion furnace, the combustion air is being piped in from the outside. The combustion air is piped directly into the furnace. These are easy to spot, they have two pipes: one for combustion air and one for the vent. Also, their panels have no louvers for combustion air. 

Traditional furnaces get their combustion air from the space where they are installed. Combustion air enters through louvers in their panels.Since the furnace is drawing air from the space it is in, fresh combustion air must be supplied to the room to keep the process going. Failure to supply the correct amount of combustion air can lead to negative room pressure, vent spillage, poor combustion, and CO production. All these things together can be disastrous.

When a technician checks a furnace that does not have sealed combustion, one of the first things to look for is how the furnace receives combustion air. If the furnace is in a ventilated crawlspace or attic, the ventilation for those spaces provides the combustion air. However, even these can be a problem. A large furnace in a small crawl space may not have adequate combustion air if the crawl space vents are closed. I have also seen crawlspace vents clogged with debris, effectively reducing the combustion air.  

The most troublesome installations are furnaces located inside the house in a closet. They should have a combustion air vent near the floor and another near the ceiling. Someone asked me about a furnace installed in a closet off of a bathroom. When they turn on the bathroom vent fan, they can smell gas! Another story involved a fireplace and a furnace. When the furnace came on it sucked the smoke out of the fireplace into the room. These types of stories indicate that the furnace does not have adequate combustion air. 

What if there are no obvious combustion air vents? Sometimes the vents were never provided, other times they have been covered up. I have seen combustion air vents covered with tape or plastic. Undoubtedly, someone noticed cold air coming in the vent and “fixed” the problem – thereby creating a combustion air problem. Occasionally insulation covers the grille into the attic. Another problem is using the furnace closet for storage. This is dangerous in and of itself, but it can also cause combustion air problems if boxes are stacked in front of the combustion air grilles.  For details on combustion air requirements check your local code. Unit 53 Gas Furnace Installation in Fundamentals of HVACR, 3rd ed also has detailed drawings and specifications for the most common applications.  

Residential Combustion Analyzers

To measure combustion efficiency you need a tool that can measure either the oxygen or CO2 content of the combustion gasses. For many years, an hour glass shaped bubbler containing a fluid that absorbs CO2 or O2 was used. They are difficult to find these days. They have been replaced by electronic instruments. These use an electro-chemical reaction in an oxygen sensor to measure the O2 content in the flue gases. They use thermistors to read the flue gas temperature and ambient temperature, so they have all the information that need to calculate and display combustion efficiency. They use this information to display CO2 %, O2 %, combustion efficiency, % excess air, flue gas temperature, and net stack temperature. Most offer other measurements as well. Some of the more common additional features include:

• CO ppm – to read the CO in the flue gas

• CO ppm air free – to calculate the CO ppm after removing the excess air

• Draft pressure – to insure you actually have a draft

• Differential draft pressure – to insure the draft pressure is lower than the room pressure

• NOX – to comply with NOX regulations in areas that restrict furnace NOX emissions

• Printer – to print out reports from results

• Computer Connectivity – to import data from analyzer to programs on your computer

Prices vary a good bit. From just over $500 for no-frills analyzers intended for residential work, to several thousand for commercial instruments. Certificates of NIST traceability often cost more.  Most combustion analyzers use electro-chemical sensors. These have a limited life because the chemicals in them are used up as they work. Typical replacement time is every one to two years. Some are user replaceable, and others require sending in the tool for the sensors to be replaced. This will typically cost $200 - $300. The table below compares several of the lower priced models which are aimed at the residential market.

	Bacharach Intech	Testo 310	UEI C75	E Instruments BTU 900
O2	yes	yes	yes	yes
CO2	yes	yes	yes	yes
Efficiency	yes	yes	yes	yes
Excess Air	yes	yes	yes	yes
CO	yes	yes	yes	yes
Air Free CO	yes	yes	no	yes
Draft pressure	no	yes	no	yes
Differential Pressure	no	no	no	yes
NOX	no	no	no	Can upgrade
Printer	Available Extra Cost	Available Extra Cost	Available Extra Cost	Available Extra Cost
Computer Connectivity	no	no	No	USB & Bluetooth
Field replaceable sensor	yes	no	no	yes
Fuels	6	5	5	10
Warranty	2 years	2 years	3 years	2 year
Approximate Street Price	$520	$600	$500	$1000

Keep Outside Combustion Appliances Outside

Every winter I hear a few sad stories of people getting ill or dying because they decided to operate an outdoor combustion appliance inside their house. Most often, this occurs during a power outage. One example, someone decided to bring their charcoal barbeque grill inside the house to cook because it would also provide heat and they wouldn't have to stand out in the cold. They didn’t realize that burning charcoal creates lots of carbon monoxide. Their daughter got deathly ill, so they rushed her to the hospital. Fortunately, that got everyone out of the house and she recovered. Charcoal tells you right on the bag not to do that, but we don’t all read the instructions. You also hear about people running generators inside. Last year in Atlanta, a family died of carbon monoxide poisoning due to carbon monoxide from operating a generator in their basement overnight during a power outage. Gasoline engines should never be operated inside. A simple rule for staying safe is: if it is normally operated outside, keep it out there. Although there are probably many creative ways to use outdoor tools and appliances inside, there is usually a reason they are designed to be operated outside. I am sure most folks involved in HVACR already know this, but many of your friends and acquaintances may not. So do folks a favor, pass the word that charcoal grills, generators, and gasoline powered tools should stay OUTSIDE!  

Why Excess Air Is Important

Combustion requires oxygen, which furnaces get from the air. Ventilation of the combustion products from a draft hood appliance, such as a water heater or an older natural draft furnace, requires even more air. For theoretically perfect combustion you need 10 cubic feet of air for every cubic foot of natural gas that is burned. However, the burners in even the most modern and well designed furnaces are not perfect. Combustion appliances all introduce excess air to insure there is enough oxygen for safe combustion. Too little excess air will have the burners operating in an oxygen starved condition, creating high levels of carbon monoxide (CO). Too much excess air can also be bad. Too much excess air will cool the flame, and also produce high levels of CO. Typical older natural draft appliances with atmospheric burners use around 50% excess air, turning the 10 CF of combustion air to 15 cubic feet. Nearly all residential furnaces manufactured today are induced draft appliances with atmospheric burners. In these furnaces, the excess air is more typically 20% - 40%. Excess air can safely go as low as 10% for commercial power burners that do a better job of mixing the air and gas.

In general, excess air decreases efficiency by cooling the combustion process. For any furnace, the ideal amount of excess air would produce the highest combustion efficiency without introducing an excessive level of CO in the flue gas. In most cases, as you reduce excess air you will see both the efficiency and CO increase. If the amount of excess air is excessive, reducing the excess air may actually decrease the CO produced in the flue gas. You want to keep the air-free CO below 400 ppm, the ANSI standard. Many techs try to keep the air-free below 100 ppm. Older gas furnaces had primary air adjustments, making it possible to adjust the amount of air being mixed with the gas. Newer furnaces do not have any air adjustments. You can only adjust the amount of fuel by adjusting the manifold pressure or orifice size. Increasing the gas being burned has the effect of reducing the excess air because now more air is needed. However, you should NOT overfire the furnace in an attempt to improve efficiency. When making any adjustments to manifold pressure or orifice size, always check orifice sizes and manifold pressure against the manufacturers specifications and the heat content of the gas supplied by the local gas utility. To read more on how combustion efficiency and CO production are affected by excess air, check out the Combustion Guide from Tru-Tech Tools (it is a free download HERE).